Scotland, a place with rich history, stunning landscapes, plentiful sheep, impressive castles, and delightful weather (depending on your definition of it I suppose; we quite enjoy the generally chilled temperatures and gloom, but to each their own). If you too are enamored by these traits, then Scotland may be on your list to visit. We spent one week in Scotland, specifically in Edinburgh, the Highlands, and on the Isle of Skye during May and could not have had a more wonderful time. It left us wishful to return again someday.
This post will walk you through how we spent our time and where we stayed, giving our recommendations along the way. This itinerary is perfect if you desire to see the charming stone streets and buildings of Edinburgh as well as the rugged countryside all in one trip.
Getting to Scotland
The easiest way into Scotland is through the Edinburgh Airport (EDI). For those seeking immediate access to the Highlands, Aberdeen or Inverness are good alternatives. We flew into Edinburgh to spend 48 hours exploring the beautiful capital and its historic medieval Old Town before setting out for the countryside.
Day 1: Arriving in Scotland
If you are arriving into Edinburgh by plane and staying somewhere central within the city, you have the option to take the Airlink 100 bus or the tram. We landed in Edinburgh around 10:30 AM and opted to take the Airlink 100 bus which was very straightforward. You can find more information on the Airlink 100 here.
Although a bit tired upon arrival, we were eager to start exploring. While Edinburgh offers a range of hotels, we opted for a more budget-friendly Airbnb just off George Street, putting us within walking distance of all the city’s main attractions. After reaching our Airbnb (see more on all of our accommodations below) to drop off our luggage, we got lunch at Pappi nearby which was very reasonably priced and had great sandwiches.
Holyrood Park
Within an hour of landing, we made our way to Holyrood Park to catch a glimpse of the Palace of Holyroodhouse and explore this unique park right in the heart of Edinburgh. Despite our jet lag, we wandered through the cobbled streets and reached the Palace and Queen Mary’s Bath House, taking it all in before heading deeper into the park.
The most notable area of the park is the walk up to Arthur’s Seat. Do be prepared with proper footwear and attire if you wish to do so as it is a moderately difficult hike. Riley had already done it on his last trip to Edinburgh so we chose to circle St Margaret’s Loch and make a quick climb up to the ruins of St Anthony’s Chapel this time around. You’ll notice a recurring theme throughout this trip: a preference for nature and the countryside over the city.
After a few hours of exploring Holyrood Park, we decided to take a much-needed break and head back to our Airbnb. While many travel guides encourage you to constantly be on the go, it’s important to remember that this is your vacation—it’s okay to pause, especially after being awake for nearly 36 hours!
We ended the day and evening at a dinner reservation and quick night walk up and down the famous Royal Mile. You can read more about what we ate on this trip here.
Day 2: Exploring Edinburgh
After a comfortable night at our Airbnb, we started our morning with a sit-down breakfast at the Castlegate Café. Allison wanted to have the full Scottish breakfast experience (see more about our food here). With full bellies, we made our way next door to the Vennel Steps for a view of Edinburgh Castle. It’s one of those postcard-worthy spots that if you are influencers like us (this is a JOKE), you need to make a stop.
Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, Victoria Street, and Cockburn Street
From there, we set off to explore the famous Edinburgh Castle and Royal Mile. The Royal Mile shops all seem to run together (we found out one person owns most of them), though we quickly found ourselves drawn to the side streets and hidden gems, which offered a less touristy feel. Victoria Street, with its colorful storefronts and quirky shops, and Cockburn Street, with more unique shops, were both highlights.
Lunch that day was at Mor Bakehouse, a great spot for a quick bite before continuing our day. Afterward, we strolled through Princes Street Gardens, a peaceful green space with views of the castle towering above. One of our favorite unexpected activities in foreign countries is checking out local supermarkets, and Edinburgh was no exception—we spent some time wandering the aisles and discovering new snacks and treats. We also wandered down some residential streets, which gave us a nice contrast to Edinburgh Old Town.
We wrapped up the day with an early dinner at Makars Mash, where the Royal Haggis stole the show. It was the perfect introduction to Scotland’s national dish, and we both loved it. In fact, it was the third time Riley had haggis that day!
After dinner, we planned to check out Stramash, a live music venue in a restored church. However, when we arrived, we realized the music wouldn’t start for another 2.5 hours—and we were already running on fumes! Since we were already on this side of Old Town, we decided to visit Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, known for its connection to familiar names from the Harry Potter books. It was surprising how many other people were also there, exploring and searching for these famous names on the gravestones.
After a full day of exploring Edinburgh’s charm, we were ready to rest and gear up for our journey into the Highlands the next day.
Day 3: Into the Highlands
The third day of our trip marked the start of our adventure into the Scottish Highlands. After a quick breakfast in Edinburgh, we met at the bus station for our Rabbie’s Tour. The itinerary was full of must-see locations packed into only a few days.
THe Kelpies
We kicked things off by stopping at The Kelpies, 30-meter-high horse-head sculptures that towered above us.
Shortly after, we were driving through the rugged beauty of Scotland, with Loch Lubnaig as our next stop. While the peaks around the loch weren’t the highest, their steepness made them feel towering and imposing.
Afterward, we stopped in the small village of Tyndrum and enjoyed our first taste of traditional fish and chips at The Real Food Cafe. While not the most practical choice with a full day ahead, it was definitely a treat. After exploring the village for a bit, we headed out, excited for Glencoe.
glencoe
Our next stop was Glencoe, a place that carries a heavy history yet feels vast and untouched. Glencoe was arguably one of the highlights of the trip. During one of our stops, we learned about Scotland’s “right to roam.” The Land Reform Act of 2003 grants everyone access to land and inland water across Scotland, as long as they act responsibly. This concept of “freedom to roam” really resonated with the both of us, and we made sure to take full advantage of it throughout the rest of our trip (responsibly and respectfully of course).
Before leaving Glencoe, we visited the Glencoe Visitor Centre, where we were lucky enough to spot our first—and only—Highland cow (or “coo”). These iconic shaggy creatures are as charming in person as you’d imagine, and we were thrilled to finally see one. After exploring Glencoe, we stopped for a quick hike at Inchree Falls. If you’re on your way to Fort William, this half-hour hike is worth it—great views with minimal effort, and hardly any crowds.
By evening, we arrived in Fort William and checked into the Muthu Fort William Hotel. Dinner that night was at Black Isle Bar, a unique spot known for sourcing ingredients from local farmers or growing their own. Housed in what looked like an old stone church, it had a laid-back vibe and served up delicious wood-fired pizzas. We grabbed a table, savored a well-earned meal, and looked forward to the next day ahead.
Day 4: A Highland Adventure
Glenfinnan Viaduct + Silver Sands of Morar
The next day of our adventure was packed with incredible sights and memorable experiences. We started off with a visit to the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct, the iconic railway bridge featured in the Harry Potter films. We camped out waiting for the The Jacobite Steam Train, but ultimately ran out of time. On the backside of this same spot, Bonnie Prince Charlie landed for the 1745 Jacobite Rising.
I could have spent another hour in this area, and highly recommended making time for this. Our next stop was the Silver Sands of Morar, where the stunning white beaches meet the vibrant blue waters—creating a small cove. It’s a view that stays with you.
For lunch, we stopped at the Co-op in Mallaig, a small port town. The Co-Op is a chain of grocery stores that became a part of our daily routine for lunch while in the highlands. We loved their sandwich meal deal, and this was the first of many. Unfortunately, our plan to catch the ferry hit a snag when we encountered a reservation problem. This forced us to backtrack all the way through Fort William, which ate into some of our time. Still, we made the most of it with a stop at Spean Bridge to see the Commando Memorial, offering both great views and a moving tribute to WWII history.
Eilean Donan Castle
As we continued our journey, we arrived at Eilean Donan Castle. Instead of touring the castle, we opted to explore the nearby village of Dornie, taking in the surroundings and peaceful atmosphere. From there, we drove to Kyleakin and visited the bay before meeting our incredible B&B hosts, Cara and Neil, at The Piper’s Lodge in Kyle of Lochalsh. Staying at The Piper’s Lodge was an absolute highlight of our trip. Cara and Neil were some of the kindest people we’ve ever met, making us feel right at home. We could have easily spent a week there! The rooms were spacious, clean, and welcoming, and the breakfast gave us the perfect start to our day of exploring.
The Plock
For dinner, we picked up fish and chips from Hector’s 2 Go. Luckily, the rain held off, allowing us to enjoy our meal by the loch. Afterward, we visited a local grocery store for some baked goods and then headed to “The Plock,” a nature reserve offering stunning views of the Isle of Skye Bridge. This area, which even incorporates some private backyards for access, is a great example of Scotland’s right to roam.
We had a memorable encounter with Chris, a local who lives and works in Kyle. Chris gave us an insightful rundown of Kyle, the Isle of Skye, the bridge, and even shared an intriguing local political story about Robert the Pict and tolls. Small, enjoyable encounters like this, along with our wonderful B&B hosts, made our trip truly special. It was a lovely way to end the evening.
Day 5: Isle of Skye Exploration Day
We began our day of exploring the Isle of Skye with a hearty breakfast at The Piper’s Lodge, our charming B&B in Kyle of Lochalsh. While our stay there was fantastic, the day ahead was packed with more sights than what we had time for. This was the big day we wished we had rented a car rather than taking a tour. In hindsight, Skye has so many hidden spots, villages, and scenic pull-offs that we wanted to explore further. One example of this is we definitely could have used more time to hike farther at the Quiraing and see even more of the island’s beauty.
Collie and Mackenzie, Portree, and Clach Ard Pictish Symbol
Our first stop was the Collie and MacKenzie Statue in Portree, where we spent some time exploring this monument, the views, and the old bridge here. We continued our drive into the sleepy port town of Portree. Here Allison and I decided to find a table at a local coffee shop and enjoy a slower morning. We also made another stop at their local Co-op to prepare for lunch later that day.
After a relaxing morning, we visited the Clach Ard Pictish Symbol Stone. This ancient stone, with its mysterious symbols, evokes comparisons to a Scottish version of Stonehenge, adding a layer of intrigue about what it might have represented to the Picts.
Fairy Glen
Next, we headed to the Fairy Glen. Despite the rain—our only encounter with “bad” weather during the trip—we found this magical spot enchanting. We scrambled over rocks, observed the sheep, and tried to catch a glimpse of a fairy, but with no luck. This is another instance where we could have spent more time exploring the nooks and crannies of this spot. We would highly recommend adding this stop to your list if it’s not already on it.
The Quiraing
Next, we drove to the Quiraing, where we wandered around, taking in the breathtaking views and people-watching. This is another must see area on the Isle of Skye that you shouldn’t miss. We definitely wish that we would have had more time to explore here.
From there, we headed to Kilt Rock. This is a stop that we feel you can skip if you are short on time.
Old Man of Storr
We then continued to the Old Man of Storr, which we were unfortunately unable to get up close to due to the rigorous trail lending itself to too many past liabilities with Rabbies tour goers who maybe were not the best prepared. For the best view without the crowds or a laborious hike, we recommend driving along Loch Fada to see the Old Man from afar, but make sure it’s not foggy!
By evening, we returned to Kyle and decided to try Kyle Chinese Takeaway, based on Chris’s recommendation from the night before. While the meal didn’t quite live up to our expectations, it was a fitting end to another memorable day on Skye.
Day 6: The Return to Edinburgh
Sleat Peninsula Ferry
We began our day by heading to the Sleat Peninsula and taking the ferry from Armadale on Skye to Mallaig. Although we had visited before, we had a reservation issue, so it was nice to finally complete the trip. After disembarking, we returned to Spean Bridge for a final grocery store lunch and picnic. Despite being a popular tourist spot with lots of buses, it still retains that quintessential Scottish charm.
We then stopped at Pattack Falls for a quick hike before driving through Cairngorms National Park.
Our journey continued to Tay Forest Park, where we hiked around The Hermitage and Craigvinean Forest.
Next, we spent some time in Dunkeld, one of our favorite towns of the trip. There, we had a delightful encounter with a mother and daughter duo at a local horse tack shop, Earn Equestrian & Country Sports. They shared fascinating stories about the area, and we couldn’t resist picking up a memento from their shop.
This visit was the perfect cherry on top of our Highland adventure, as the people we met and encountered along the way were the most memorable part of the trip. We then returned to Edinburgh for our final evening. For dinner, we dined at Edinburgh Street Food, a unique setup featuring various local vendors where Allison and I sampled a variety of dishes. It was a fitting end to our unforgettable trip to Scotland.
Our Accommodations
Edinburgh
- Bide Collective 18 Airbnb (Nights 1 & 2): This Airbnb was in an ideal location, just off of Princes Street. It was clean, the host was very responsive, and it served its purpose well. Do note if you stay here that the bathroom is actually outside of the room next door so you have to go through the shared hall to get to it. This was not an issue, but something to know before booking.
- hub by Premier Inn Edinburgh City Centre – Rose Street (Night 6):
Fort William
- Muthu Fort William Hotel (Night 3): The rooms at this hotel are a bit dated, but we had no complaints. A fantasic breakfast spread in an elegant dining room overlooking Loch Linnhe was included with the stay.
Kyle of Lochalsh
- The Piper’s Lodge (Nights 4 & 5): This was hands down our favorite place that we stayed on our trip. Cara and Neil were the most welcoming and gracious of hosts, our room was very charming and cozy, and the breakfast spread both mornings was excellent.
If you’re interested in taking a similar journey, we highly recommend the Rabbies Tour that we experienced. It was a fantastic way to explore the Highlands and Isle of Skye. We have to give a shout out to our remarkable guide, Cattie, for helping to make our experience as great as it was.
For more details about our Scotland trip, check out these related posts:
- What to Pack for Shoulder Seasons in Scotland
- Our Scottish Food Adventure | Where to Eat in Scotland