I absolutely love Ireland. I’ve been fortunate to embark on two three-month stints traveling through Europe, and Ireland is the only place I chose to revisit because I had control over my destination. That says a lot! There’s something about its charm, history, and warm people that keeps pulling me back.
One of the best things about Ireland? It’s relatively easy to travel without a car. Both times I visited, I relied on buses, trains, and even a wild van ride (don’t worry, I’ll share that story later!). So, if you’re ready, let’s dive into a week-long car-free adventure through this magical country.
Day 1: Arrival in Dublin
Welcome to Ireland! If you’re flying in from the U.S., you’ll likely land in Dublin early in the morning. I’ve found that flights to Dublin tend to be more affordable compared to other European cities—especially during the shoulder seasons. My personal favorite time to visit is late April or early May. There’s a bit of that classic Irish grey drizzle, but the moments of sunshine feel like a true treat.
Getting into the City:
From Dublin Airport, hop on the Aircoach for about €12 (round trip) to get into the city center quickly and easily. Since this is a car-free trip, I recommend booking a hotel, hostel, or Airbnb near O’Connell Street or in one of the charming surrounding neighborhoods. Look for places with early check-in or at least luggage storage, so you can drop off your bags and start exploring right away (trust me, staying awake until dark will help fight the jet lag!).
Start Your Adventure:
Grab a coffee and a pastry and head out on a walking tour! This is my go-to activity in any new city. Some might think it’s a little touristy, but it’s an excellent way to learn the layout, get a good walk in, and soak in the history. I highly recommend Sandeman’s Walking Tours. I’ve done over a dozen of their tours, and the guides are usually fantastic. Don’t forget to tip—€10 per person is the standard.
On your tour, you’ll hit some of Dublin’s highlights:
- Dublin Castle
- Temple Bar District
- Trinity College (Ireland’s oldest university)
- Christ Church Cathedral
Walking tours are also a great way to find hidden gems and decide where you want to spend more time later. Be sure to ask your guide for recommendations—good guides will tailor the experience to your interests.
Evening Tip:
After a day of exploring, find a cozy pub for dinner. My personal favorite is O’Neill’s Pub, which has a special place in my heart. Growing up, my parents had a picture of this pub hanging in our house, and I always dreamed of visiting it. I made that dream a reality in 2019 and again in 2022, and let me tell you: their Guinness Beef Stew is worth every bite.
Day 2: Dublin Your Way
Day two is all about diving deeper into what interests you most. Dublin has so much to offer, and there’s no wrong way to spend your time.
Here are some of my favorite picks:
- Trinity College and the Book of Kells: Explore the iconic library and one of Ireland’s most treasured artifacts.
- Guinness Storehouse: Yes, it’s touristy, but the museum is fascinating, and the rooftop bar offers stunning views of Dublin.
- St. Patrick’s Cathedral: This 13th-century stone church is one of my personal favorites. Its gothic architecture is breathtaking.
- St. Stephen’s Green: A peaceful escape in the heart of the city, perfect for a leisurely stroll.
Pro Tip:
The Temple Bar District is more than just the famous red pub. Snap your photo, but spend your money elsewhere. You’ll find better food, drink, and atmosphere in less touristy spots nearby.
Other Dublin Highlights:
- Explore O’Connell Street and its side streets.
- Visit Christ Church Cathedral or Dublin Castle.
- Find a hidden gem café or pub to relax and people-watch.
End your day soaking up the live music and vibrant atmosphere that Dublin’s pubs are famous for. No matter where you go, you will find some of that magic you traveled for!
Day 3: Travel to and Explore Galway
It’s time to say goodbye to Dublin and venture west to one of my favorite places in Ireland: Galway. While Dublin has its charm, I truly believe the best part of Ireland is found beyond its capital. Galway is a vibrant coastal town famous for its cobbled streets, colorful shops, and iconic landmarks like the Claddagh ring. Oh, and let’s not forget its shoutout in that Ed Sheeran song!
Getting There:
Since we’re sticking to car-free travel, you’ll need to make your way from your Dublin accommodation to Dublin Heuston Station. Irish Rail offers a convenient 07:35 train (yes, it’s early, but this is a trip, not a vacation—ha!). The direct journey to Galway takes about 2.5 hours and costs less than €20. Check the Irish Rail website for the latest timetables and ticket prices.
By 10:30, you’ll arrive in Galway, ready to explore. The city is compact and super walkable, making it perfect for a day of wandering and discovery.
Exploring Galway:
When I visited Galway in 2019, I spent almost two full days there. I found myself with some downtime on the second day, which is why I recommend packing as much into one full day as possible. Of course, you can always extend your stay if you fall in love with the city (and you just might!).
Here’s how to make the most of your day:
- Eyre Square: Your introduction to Galway begins here—it’s just steps from the train station. Take a moment to soak in the lively atmosphere and admire the sculptures and greenery.
- NUI Galway: Stroll through the beautiful grounds of this local university. It’s a peaceful spot that feels a world away from the bustling city center.
- The Spanish Arch: Explore this historic site and imagine its significance during Galway’s maritime heyday.
- The Claddagh: Walk along the area where the River Corrib meets Galway Bay. The name “Claddagh” means “the shore” in Irish, and the views here are serene and inspiring.
- Quay Street: This lively pedestrian street is the heart of Galway. Watch street performers (called buskers), pop into charming shops, and enjoy the colorful, festive vibe.
Personal Note:
One of my favorite things about Galway was simply wandering without a plan. The cobbled streets and brightly painted storefronts have a way of making you slow down and savor the moment. Watching the buskers on Quay Street was especially memorable—they add so much character to the city.
If you’re up for it, consider finishing your day with some live traditional Irish music at one of Galway’s many pubs. It’s the perfect way to end a magical day on the west coast.
Day 4: Travel to and Explore the Cliffs of Moher
Are you ready for what might just be the highlight of your trip? Visiting the Cliffs of Moher is a must, and today is the day!
Getting There:
You’ll start your journey at Galway’s bus station, conveniently located near the train station. Since this is a trip (not a vacation—ha!), it’s another early morning. You have two main options: the 08:00 bus or, if you need a bit more rest, the 10:00 bus. Either option will get you to Doolin, the charming coastal town that serves as a gateway to the cliffs, in less than two hours. The one-way trip costs less than €15.
A word of advice: The roads to Doolin are narrow and winding, which adds to the adventure. If you’re prone to car sickness, sit up front, put your phone away, and enjoy the stunning views out the window. Trust me—it’s worth it!
Exploring the Cliffs of Moher:
Once you arrive in Doolin, you’ll be in a quintessential Irish village that feels straight out of a postcard. From here, you have a few options for experiencing the Cliffs of Moher.
- Pat Sweeney’s Doolin Cliff Walk:
If you’re up for a guided adventure, this walk is a fantastic choice. I first learned about Pat back in 2018 while planning my first European trip. His guided tour offers not just incredible views but also rich history and local stories. As their website shares:
“Pat has been involved from the commencement of the project in 2007, assisting with negotiations to secure access with 39 farmers whose lands the trail crosses. His passion and knowledge of the locality have been translated into a guided walk, which will greatly enhance any walker’s experience.”
The walk takes about 4 hours round trip, including stops for photos and admiring the scenery. If I had a do-over, I’d grab a packed lunch in Galway to enjoy during the walk—it’s the perfect way to savor the breathtaking views. - Self-Guided Walk:
If you prefer to go at your own pace, the trail to the main viewpoint and back is easily doable in 3–4 hours. The landscape is unforgettable, with sweeping views of the Atlantic and the dramatic cliffs plunging into the sea.
Optional Activity -
Doolin Pitch and Putt:
If you have extra time—either later in the afternoon or the following morning—I highly recommend Doolin Pitch and Putt. For just €12, you’ll get a wedge, a putter, and two golf balls to play on this small links-style course. It’s a unique way to soak in more of the Irish countryside, and you’ll even get €1 back for each golf ball you return! The scorecard I brought home remains one of my favorite souvenirs from Ireland.
Evening in Doolin:
Wrap up your day with dinner and live music at one of Doolin’s pubs. My personal favorite was Gus O’Connor’s Pub. We arrived at 9:00 PM to find it packed with lively crowds and traditional Irish music filling the air. The atmosphere was incredible, and it’s still one of my favorite memories from Ireland.
Whether you choose to walk the cliffs, play a round of pitch and putt, or simply enjoy the charm of Doolin, this day is sure to be unforgettable.
Day 5: Travel to Killarney
Today will be one of your longer travel days, so pack your patience and get ready to enjoy the journey. Without a car, the trip to Killarney will require some extra planning, but with a little organization, it’ll go smoothly.
Getting to Killarney:
Depending on the time of year, you’ll likely find a mix of buses and trains to get you to Killarney. I recommend choosing the option with the fewest transfers, as more connections can increase the chance of delays or unexpected changes. Use tools like Google Maps or Rome2Rio to research routes in advance. The trip will cost about €20–30 per person and typically takes around 5 hours, including transfers.
Make the most of this travel time! It’s a great opportunity to go through your photos, update your travel journal, or even take a nap—you’ve still got a few days of adventures ahead.
Arriving in Killarney:
Welcome to Killarney! This charmingly walkable, picturesque town, is a perfect blend of history, nature, and vibrant culture. During my trip, I stayed at the Black Sheep Hostel, and it remains one of my favorite accommodations in Ireland. It’s a cozy, welcoming space that also doubles as a coffeehouse, so even if you’re staying elsewhere, I recommend stopping by for a coffee.
Exploring Killarney:
With the remaining half-day, take time to explore Killarney’s highlights:
- St. Mary’s Cathedral: A stunning stone church with impressive architecture.
- Killarney House & Gardens: A peaceful spot to wander, with beautifully landscaped gardens and great photo opportunities.
- The Town Center: Killarney is a tourist destination, so you’ll find plenty of shops, restaurants, and pubs to explore. Take your time poking into stores or enjoying the lively streets.
Evening in Killarney:
End your day with a hearty Irish meal at one of Killarney’s excellent pubs or restaurants. Rest up because tomorrow brings one of the most breathtaking adventures of your trip—the Gap of Dunloe.
Day 6: The Gap of Dunloe
If you thought the Cliffs of Moher were a highlight, today might just top it. The Gap of Dunloe combines stunning landscapes, serene walking trails, and a touch of adventure. Whether you prefer hiking, walking, or biking, this day offers something unforgettable.
Planning Your Day:
For a seamless experience, book your tour through a service like gapofdunloetours.com. We opted for the Backpacker Walker Tour, which includes a boat ride and a hiking portion. You can add a €10 bus option for convenience, which will transport you to the starting point.
We decided to do the tour in reverse, starting with the hike at Kate Kearney’s Cottage and ending with the boat ride departing Lord Brandon’s Cottage at 2 PM. This reverse itinerary worked perfectly as it gave us ample time to enjoy the hike and still make it to the boat on time.
Our van experience added some unplanned excitement. After being dropped at Beaufort Bridge, the driver casually mentioned, “Someone will be here soon to pick you up.” We laughed, waited by the charming bridge, and were indeed picked up about 10 minutes later and taken to Kate Kearney’s Cottage, the starting point of the Gap of Dunloe hike. Travel can sometimes be unpredictable, but it’s all part of the fun, and has become a core memory!
Make the most of this travel time! It’s a great opportunity to go through your photos, update your travel journal, or even take a nap—you’ve still got a few days of adventures ahead.
The Hike Through the Gap:
The Gap of Dunloe hike is a 7-mile paved trail that winds through dramatic landscapes and rolling hills. The path is moderately challenging, with an overall elevation gain of 840 feet, but the views make every step worthwhile. Budget 2.5–3 hours for the hike, depending on your pace.
Here’s how to prepare:
- Wear comfortable shoes for walking and bring a rain jacket and sunblock—Irish weather is famously unpredictable.
- Restrooms are only available at Kate Kearney’s Cottage and Lord Brandon’s Cottage, so plan accordingly.
- The trail is perfect for soaking in the beauty of the Irish countryside, from flowing streams to grazing sheep and stunning mountain views.
We started the hike late morning and found the trail relatively quiet in early May. Depending on the season, you may encounter more visitors, but the scenery is so expansive it never feels crowded.
The Boat Ride:
After completing the hike, you’ll arrive at Lord Brandon’s Cottage in time for the 2 PM boat departure. The boat ride is a magical experience, taking you through small lakes, under picturesque stone bridges, and into the heart of Killarney’s natural beauty.
Our boat captain, an elderly gentleman brimming with charm and humor, was an absolute delight. His stories and lively commentary added an extra layer of enjoyment to the hour-long journey to Ross Castle.
The total cost for the tour ranges from €20–40 per person, depending on the options you select. Larger groups may even be able to negotiate a discount.
Returning to Killarney:
From Ross Castle, take a leisurely walk back into town. If you’re feeling energetic, consider taking the River Deenagh trail for a more scenic route. It’s a peaceful way to wind down after the day’s adventure.
Evening in Killarney:
Once back in town, treat yourself! Stop by J.M. Reidy’s for a coffee and pastry. If you’re lucky, you might even meet some friendly pups like I did during my visit.
For dinner, explore Killarney’s dining scene. If you’re ready for something different after several days of Irish classics, you’ll find plenty of options to satisfy your cravings.
Day 7: Return to Dublin
All good things must come to an end, and sadly, today we wrap up your Irish adventure. Fortunately, you have several options for your return to Dublin:
- Train: A direct train from Killarney to Dublin takes approximately 3 hours, offering a scenic and comfortable ride.
- Bus: Alternatively, you can take a direct bus to Dublin Airport, with tickets starting at under €40.
If you’re flying out of Dublin to an international destination, keep in mind that flights to cities like Nashville often depart around 2:00 PM. With careful planning, you can go straight from Killarney to the airport that morning.
For those staying one final night in Dublin, this is a good time to revisit any spots you may have missed earlier in the trip. Alternatively, if your departure is the following day, you can adjust this itinerary by reducing your time in Dublin at the start of the trip and saving those activities for the end.
The key takeaway here: plan carefully and don’t miss your flight!
Final Notes
Ireland is a magical destination, and I hope this week-long guide helps you create unforgettable memories on your trip. While traveling by car can offer added flexibility, this car-free guide shows you can still explore the Emerald Isle without the hassle of driving.
Whether it’s cost-saving, logistics, or just personal preference, navigating Ireland by train, bus, and foot is not only feasible but incredibly rewarding.
The beauty of Ireland lies in its charming towns, breathtaking landscapes, and warm-hearted people. There’s so much to see and do, so feel free to reach out if you have questions about my experiences or other destinations you’re considering.
Safe travels, and enjoy your Irish adventure!